解構,分為「分解」與「構成結構」,是對於結構的破壞與重組。從70年代的反時裝運動開始解構主義逐漸成型,當時時尚界對於服裝的反叛與探索,強調對於自身的關注度,如何表現自我意識使解構主義成為一大主流。

Fashion show, Gown, Runway, Fashion model, Costume design, Fashion, Model, Public event, Haute couture, Fur, pinterest
Maison Margiela Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015/2016。

解構服裝的特徵除了誇張的整體架構以外,不對稱肩線、波浪形線條都是表現手法之一,或者倒轉常態結構,或者顯得支離破碎。

Comme des Garçons

以長有眼睛的俏皮紅心為logo,創辦人川久保玲在70、80年代日本設計師崛起之時,以新奇、巧妙的服裝構思贏得大眾關注。以解構手法表現在服裝上,吸引了大眾的好奇心,結構立體的服飾,出乎意料的設計風格是解構服裝的始祖之一。

Footwear, Style, Fashion accessory, Headgear, Street fashion, Costume accessory, Fashion, Costume design, Electric blue, Costume, pinterest
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Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2016。

Sleeve, Shoulder, Textile, Magenta, Style, Pattern, Fashion model, One-piece garment, Costume design, Fashion, pinterest
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Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2016。

Maison Margiela

叛逆男孩Alexander McQueen生前最愛穿的品牌就是Maison Margiela!創辦人Martin Margiela和日本設計師川久保玲一同被譽為「影響當今時尚界最重要的人」。Maison Margiela以不對稱的層次感服裝、多樣的面料組合為特色,更曾推出顏色多樣的AIDS Tee,引起一陣時尚炫風。

Sleeve, Shoulder, Fashion show, Style, Waist, Fashion model, Street fashion, Runway, Fashion, Neck, pinterest
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Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016。

Clothing, Sleeve, Pattern, Textile, Joint, Outerwear, Style, Collar, Plaid, Street fashion, pinterest
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Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2016。

Vetements

時尚界的熱門話題,Vetements帶有解構特色卻又休閒率性的風格,讓時尚界人士為之瘋狂!既不對稱又不收邊的牛仔褲人人一條,隨意但具有態度的服飾,讓品牌獲得極大的關注度,可以說是解構服裝界的新星。

Footwear, Leg, Human, Event, Outerwear, Coat, Style, Fashion model, Fashion, Blazer, pinterest
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Vetements Spring/Summer 2016。

Product, Sleeve, Textile, Photograph, Collar, Outerwear, White, Pattern, Style, Street fashion, pinterest
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Vetements Fall/Winter 2016。

Balenciaga

繼以簡約風格著稱的Alexander Wang之後,Balenciaga的創意總監正是創辦Vetements的 Demna Gvasalia!從年初推出了2016秋冬系列不難看出:Demna Gvasalia不對稱襯衫下擺造型和強調肩線變化的個人特色,在Balenciaga也發揮得淋漓盡致。

Clothing, Sleeve, Shoulder, Textile, Joint, Pattern, Style, Formal wear, Fashion model, Street fashion, pinterest
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Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2016。

巴黎時裝週有著眾多充滿解構色彩的服飾品牌,在時裝週來臨之前,不如一起回顧更多精彩解構服裝!

Fashion show, Dress, Runway, Style, Fashion model, Costume design, Fashion, One-piece garment, Street fashion, Model, pinterest
Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016。

Footwear, Fashion show, Textile, Outerwear, Runway, Fashion model, Style, Street fashion, Fashion, Model, pinterest
Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2016。

Style, Fashion, Black, Costume accessory, Waist, Street fashion, Fashion design, Fashion model, Costume design, Masque, pinterest
Maison Margiela Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2014。

Lip, Style, Fashion model, Fashion show, Street fashion, Fashion, Dress, Thigh, Model, Fur, pinterest
Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2015。

Fashion show, Runway, Costume design, Fur clothing, Headgear, Costume accessory, Fashion, Fashion model, Fur, Costume, pinterest
Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2014。

Fashion, Costume design, Fashion show, Costume accessory, Audience, Fashion model, Fashion design, Runway, Haute couture, Costume, pinterest
Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2014。